Attic insulation, done to the right depth

What we do in your attic

1. Measure what is there. Depth, type and condition of the old insulation, the ventilation, the hatch, and anything sitting in the way.
2. Pull out the bad stuff. Matted, wet, dirty or animal soiled insulation comes out and gets hauled away. How removal works.
3. Seal the big leaks, if you want it. Air sealing the openings into the attic can go on the price as its own line, so you see exactly what it adds.
4. Baffles at the eaves. They hold the insulation back from the soffit vents so air keeps moving under the roof deck.
5. A dam at the hatch. So the insulation does not spill when you open it.
6. Blow it in level to the target depth with blown fiberglass or cellulose. Dan Inman's home in Athens got CertainTeed blown in insulation.
7. Walk through it with you when it is done.

How much is enough

ENERGY STAR's recommendation for all of Ohio: R-60 in an attic with no insulation, and add R-49 if there are already 3 to 4 inches [1]. For new homes, Ohio's code is the 2019 Residential Code of Ohio [2], and it calls for R-49 in ceilings in both of Ohio's climate zones [3]. The newer 2021 model energy code raises that to R-60 [4]; Ohio has not adopted it. A house that is already built does not have to be brought up to new-home code: Unaltered portions of the existing building or building supply system shall not be required to comply with this chapter [3]. It is still the right target.

A lot of older homes around here have about 4 inches. That is roughly R-11. Getting to R-49 means somewhere around 14 inches of cellulose, and more of fiberglass.

Signs your attic needs more

• You can see the tops of the ceiling joists. ENERGY STAR: if the insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, you probably need to add more insulation [6].
• Upstairs rooms run hot in summer and cold in winter.
• Icicles and ice dams along the eaves. Why ice dams happen.
• The old insulation is gray, flat, wet or has animal droppings in it.